Something better than the best
Our intrepid restaurant critic presents his list of the finest restaurants to open in 2024
by Richard Foss
The ancient Greeks spent a great deal of time arguing about concepts that had never particularly bothered anybody else. Among other things that exercised their passions was a concept they called arete, which is usually translated as excellence. That’s not exactly wrong, but it’s not right either. The English word means being outstanding at something, but implies it can only be applied to the most rarefied of experiences and appreciated by experts or connoisseurs. The original Greek term has a more nuanced meaning, implying the full realization of someone’s potential. That distinction meant that someone who might be seen as a laborer or servant might be worthy of respect for their skill and craftsmanship.
That may seem like an arcane and roundabout way of beginning an article with my annual picks for the best restaurants to open in the South Bay in the past year, but stay with me here. If you ask someone for their advice about the best restaurant in the neighborhood, they’ll probably first mention somewhere spendy that you visit for special occasions. If you ask the same person for places that are fantastic at what they do – which is close to what the Greek word arete means–it opens up a wider range of options.
With that in mind, I’m renaming this year’s list as the Arete Awards, celebrating restaurants that go above and beyond at whatever price point, character, and cuisine. If this was an actual ceremony it might be a grand affair with the winners receiving a handsome gold statuette representing the human digestive system, but the budget for such an event is sadly lacking. You’ll have to imagine the live orchestra, stirring speeches, and other award ceremony trappings as you read on.
I never choose the winners with a number in mind, preferring to make a list and stop when it feels complete. This year there were eight restaurants that unequivocally belong on the list. Five are in Redondo. Hermosa, Manhattan, and Rolling Hills each have one, and El Segundo is absent this year.
As always there were some near-misses. Serendipity in Redondo has a sound niche as a stylish restaurant serving American favorites with Middle Eastern touches, but both food and service have been inconsistent. Sugo Social in Rolling Hills Estates is in the same category, serving a curious mix of Korean, South American, and Italian dishes that doesn’t quite gel. Both restaurants feel like works in progress months after opening and have the potential to mature into not just neighborhood attractions, but destination restaurants. I limited my picks to the Beach Cities and Palos Verdes, but if Torrance restaurants had been in the running Tasty China would have been included. They expertly presents the cuisine of the inland south.
So without further ado, here are my picks, working from north to south this time.
Brewco Social, Manhattan Beach: I almost disqualified this restaurant as a remodel of an existing space rather than a genuinely new enterprise, but decided that the change in menu and style was so complete to justify the pick. Neal Fraser’s menu has some daring items like the shishito peppers with bottarga and citrus glaze that might seem to belong across the street at the Strand House, but for each of those there is a more accessible item that will appeal to any palate. The shrimp pasta and schnitzel were very good, and the vegan roasted cauliflower and lentil dish is a surprising standout. When I reviewed them in August I faulted them on the lack of variety in desserts. They have added gluten-free churros to the previously ice cream-centric list. The prices are reasonable for a restaurant in this area and the service has been very good even when the place was full, making this a reliable evening out.
124 Manhattan Beach Blvd, Manhattan Beach
(310) 798-2744
Brewcosocial.com
Vin Folk chefs Katya Shastova and Kevin De Los Santos. Photo by Tony LaBruno
Vinfolk, Hermosa Beach: There was a huge buzz about this replacement for longtime local favorite Chef Melba’s, and it was entirely justified. Executive Chef Kevin de Los Santos and chef de cuisine Katya Shastova both have resumes that include Michelin starred restaurants, and if I was a betting man I’d lay good odds that this will soon be one. Northern and Southern European ideas are combined in intriguing ways and beautifully presented – when you see a plate of jidori chicken with black eyed pea and white bean cassoulet going by, you will be hungry for it. There is a sense of playfulness in some items, like the pork headcheese toast on Hokkaido milk bread with artisanal American cheese (did you know that artisanal American cheese was even a thing?) There are conventional and wildly eclectic flavor combinations here, and they all work. The wine list is very well chosen, and prices for both food and drink are very modest for cooking of this caliber.
1501 Hermosa Avenue, Hermosa Beach
No phone
Vin-folk.com
Ayan’s stuffed dumplings, called buzza, are offered with sweet and savory fillings. Photo courtesy of Ayan
Ayan, Redondo Beach: Ayan opened in a former Denny’s, a transition from a mediocre diner to a uniquely personal restaurant. Chef Andrei Malkhanov worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Russia and Thailand before coming to California to open what may be the only Mongolian fusion restaurant in the state. Even if there is another one somewhere, they’re probably not serving the curious mix of Asian, Italian, and American cuisines featured here. Authentic Mongolian food is mildly seasoned and heavy on meat-based soups and dumplings, and those are represented here. But so are variations on Thai, Vietnamese, and local favorites like a poke bowl. Stuffed dumplings, called buzza, are offered with sweet and savory fillings, and since prices are modest you can order a variety of items to share. Ayan opened with shaky service due to communication difficulties between English speaking customers and kitchen staff whose first languages were Mongolian, Russian, and Spanish, but they seem to have those problems worked out.
1760 Aviation Blvd., Redondo Beach
(310) 406-4947
Ayancalifornia.com
Dumpling Mix specialize in dumplings and noodles, which they execute superbly. Photo by Richard Foss
Dumpling Mix, Redondo: The Chinese food scene in the South Bay has been on the upswing in both quality and variety in recent years, and Dumpling Mix is a worthy addition. As you might guess, they specialize in dumplings and noodles in great variety, which they execute superbly. Don’t stop there, because the menu also includes intriguing Taiwanese and southern dishes. One of my favorites is the fried rice with masago (seafood roe most often used in Japanese cuisine). The hot and sour soup and corn and crab soup were also standouts. Ordering is via an app, and the descriptions on the listings leave much to be desired, but the staff are generally fluent and helpful. The prices are modest and portions are large, and the dining experience is enhanced by the light-filled room with lovely wooden dividers.
705 N. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach
(310) 504-0893
Dumplingmixrb.com
Zoku is a yakitori specialist with over 600 locations in Japan. Last year it opened its first U.S. location in the Redondo Riviera Village. Photo by Richard Foss
Zoku, Redondo: The beach cities now have a yakitori specialist, and it’s a heavyweight – the first U.S. outlet of a chain with over 600 locations in Japan. Most of those are fast casual places, but this one is different in style, menu and ambition. Zoku has an understated elegance and quirky charm, and while the restaurant’s reputation rests on skewered meats and vegetables cooked over Japanese charcoal, there is much more to like here. Japanese fried chicken is served with a sauce that includes bamboo ashes, which lend an unusual smoky overtone that accents sweet and spicy flavors. Ask about daily specials before you order, because sometimes they offer fresh seafood or seasonal vegetable items. Do order some skewers, particularly the chicken on which the chain built their reputation – they’re wonderfully juicy and flavorful.
261 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach
(650) 376-5476
ZokuYakitori.com
Beach Life Grotto’s offers quiet dining under the stars. Photo courtesy of BeachLife Grotto
BeachLife Grotto: The average South Bay living room is slightly larger than the downstairs dining room at BeachLife Grotto. There’s an outdoor patio that has tables for a few more diners, but even with that, it’s a relatively small space. That’s a bit surprising given the big ambitions of the BeachLife team, which presents annual music extravaganzas for thousands of people, but it’s the right choice. The kitchen here turns out intricate flavors elegantly composed, the kind of cooking that can’t be done on a large scale. The chef who designed the menu enjoys adding fruit or honey sweetness in places where you don’t expect it, as in a branzino with strongly herbal chimichurri contrasted with sweet sundried tomato and candied fig. While the menu is seafood-heavy, the pastas and brick chicken in particular show versatility. The interior environment is loud, the patio tables much less so, and after dinner you can go upstairs for dessert and cocktails under the stars. It’s the only upstairs deck in Riviera Village, and a great place to finish the evening.
1711 S. Catalina Avenue, Redondo Beach
(310) 373-1200
BeachLifeGrotto.com
Salt & Pearl raises the bar for refinement in the Redondo Riviera Village. Photo courtesy of Salt & Pearl
Salt & Peal, Redondo: Salt & Pearl, Redondo: Seafood gets the showcase at Salt & Pearl, a restaurant operated by Mickey Mance and Justin Essman, who own the adjacent Vida. This is by far the more refined and experimental of the two, with items like a warm kale salad with shaved dried fish and pomegranate. That unlikely combination was a winner, as was blackened mahi with pea and leek succotash and achiote crema. The raw bar is a big attraction here, with sashimi accented by Thai sauce, clams with a pear mignonette, and other more conventional offerings. The chef enjoys vivid contrasts and strong flavors like horseradish and chili, but will dial it back if you request. If you enjoy cocktails at all, get one while you are here, because beverage director Ken Gray is one of the top creative bartenders in the South Bay. Note that this restaurant is the loudest on this year’s list – ask for a patio table if you like it quieter.
1719 S. Catalina, Redondo Beach
(310) 372-0122
SaltAndPearlRB.com
Diana at The Little Oliva displays plates of shakshuka and veal Milanaise. Photo by Tony LaBruno
Little Oliva, Rolling Hills Estates: The rest of the restaurants on this year’s list are all on well-traveled streets, but Little Oliva is an outlier. It’s on a back street behind the Peninsula shopping center, in an area dominated by by medical and professional offices. Inside that plain exterior is a Mediterranean fantasy land that looks sundrenched even on a gray evening. The flavors are Greek and Italian with some American favorites, and they’re not trying to do anything particularly novel with them. Instead the focus is on robust but balanced flavors, with a standout moussaka, a Greek baked eggplant, beef, and pasta dish similar to lasagna. This is often a heavy, oily dish, but the version here is marvelously light and herbal. The fennel salad with cucumber, celery, mint, and cilantro is a bit of an innovation on an Italian classic, a bright and fresh starter that is particularly good before a meaty dish like the lamb or veal chop. The pizzas hit the spot too, but then again, so does everything – I haven’t had a meal here yet that I didn’t like. The cost is reasonable, and you’ll probably take some home because portions are huge.
700 Deep Valley Drive, Rolling Hills Estates
(310) 833-1313
TheLittleOliva.com
Is inclusion on this list a sign that a restaurant is likely to make it in the long haul? It’s hard to tell. Public tastes change, and calamities like fires and rent increases can take down the best of places. What can be said is that right now, these eight restaurants are achieving their potential, and most seem to be striving for new highs. ER